Source: By Zain Deane, About.com Guide
Here, on the other hand, are three more obscure and perhaps more incredible stories and historic tales from the walled city.
1. The soldier in the dungeon – 2
Photo © Zain Deane
While the dungeons were meant for prisoners of war, it also housed the occasional local lawbreaker. One of these was a captain was was imprisoned here for years. How he survived is a mystery, but he left a lasting legacy: drawings of ships, done with quite an artistic touch, given the circumstances, that survive to this day and are protected by a sheet of glass. The unnamed officer even painted the colors of the flags on the ships, identifying friend from foe.
The crude drawings are a special reason to make the trip to the dungeon, and witness a tale of survival against all odds (apparently he eventually did make it out of that cell, but the rest of his story is lost, as far as I know).
2. The spies’ drawings – 4
Photo © Zain Deane
As impressive as Castillo San Felipe del Morro5 and Castillo San Cristóbal are, they have one thing in common: neither is the oldest fortified building in San Juan. That honor goes to La Casa Blanca6, one of the oldest buildings in Puerto Rico and the original home of the Ponce de León family. Today, the elegant house, considered truly opulent in its day, is a lovely museum tucked away at the end of San Sebastián Street.
Home to many original and recreated artifacts from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, the museum is an interesting look at life over the course of San Juan’s evolution. But there are two items here that fascinated me more than any other: ask the docent (there’s an excellent staff here) to show you two drawings of Porto Rico made during the 16th century. These were actually made by Dutch spies who were making rudimentary maps to help plan attacks on the island.
3. The last moment of Spanish rule
La Fortaleza7, or “The Fortress,” is just that: an early fortification that was transformed and remodeled (and painted a lovely pastel blue, not the most aggressive of colors) into the governor’s official residence. In fact, this elegant landmark is the oldest governor’s mansion in the western hemisphere.
A tour of La Fortaleza is a trip through time and a chance to see one of the most sophisticated and opulent residences in Puerto Rico. But there is one piece of furniture in the mansion that has a symbolic importance that far outstrips its beauty. An old grandfather clock stands here, broken, its hands unmoving. It has been left like this on purpose, because this clock actually marks the very last second of Spanish rule in the new world. Following Spain’s defeat at the Spanish-American War in 1898, the last Spanish governor of Puerto Rico paused in front of this clock and struck its face with his sword on his way out of the mansion, and on his country’s way out of the Americas.
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